| 09 Sep 2007 02:09 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | Figure drawing/sketching live subjects
Rule 1: (Almost) NEVER USE AN ERASER
Why: If your sketching a living thing, just don’t bother. live subjects move, and if you spend too long rubbing out, you’ll lose your original image. If you’re drawing from a photograph sometimes its different.
Rule 2: Press lightly with your pencil. (Always use a pencil.)
Why: This way, you don’t need to break rule 1. just go over the lines until you get the shape that looks right, you can darken the lines later.
Rule 3: Work fast.
Why: Look at your subject, hold the image of your subject in your mind and transfer it from there to the paper as fast as you can. A little mental pressure helps get the sketch finished before the subject walks off. Look from paper to subject as often and for as long as you like, so long as you get the basic shape quickly.
In this image you may notice an excruciating lack of drawn detail.
The background is near non-existent, what background I have drawn is very basic and simple. The figure is a games workshop employee, gluing together a model at a work table. His basic outline and shape was drawn very quickly in pencil, with only a few details like creases and folds. Detail can be added later, I chose to use water colours to add the detail in this picture.
Try to get the basics down in under, and at the very most, 10 or 15 minutes, depending on what your subject is doing.
Ok, so now we need a subject. no one around to draw? No problem, take a photograph of yourself and display it on a pc or laptop monitor while you draw it. Remember not to take too long, get used to working quickly for live drawings.
Take a picture which shows most or all of your body, not just your face, in fact, faces are a whole different story, lets avoid that subject for now.
“Ok," you say, “I’ve done that, so now what?"
To which I reply, “15 minutes, 2B pencil, no eraser. Go!".
5, 10 or maybe 15 minutes later you say “Alright, that’s that done!".
So its not perfect (or maybe it is, I can’t see YOUR drawing, afterall), so what?
You only spent a few minutes on it, its allowed to be a little off, so you think to yourself, “Nyeh well, its not too bad, I guess, and I’ll do better next time for sure!"
(Stay positive, it’s important that you do, remember you never fail with art.)
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you.Last edited 09 Sep 2007 08:07 pm by Gunslang | |
 | | 09 Sep 2007 03:26 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | When is it ok to use the image deleting device of peril eraser?
After the rushy, rough sketch, you’ll probably want to make things a little more neat and tidy while you’re darkening the lines you DO want, its ok to erase now, because everything you need is already on the paper.
It’s also usually ok to erase along the way if your copying from a still image. (Though I didn’t in the above demonstration.)
Useful Stuff!
Proper pencils
You need a decent set of pencils. Believe me when I say theres a differennce between an expensive and a cheap set.
Some sets have a full range;
9H, 8H, 7H, 6H, 5H, 4H, 3H, 2H, H, F, HB, B, 2B, 3B, 4B, 5B, 6B, 7B, 8B, 9B
(H= Hard
F= Fine point
HB= Hard black
B= Black)
Really all you need is HB up to 4 or 6B for sketching, although its nice to have a full set. The H pencils are better for graphic high detail work (though I don’t think I’ve EVER had to draw with a 9H. They have good armour penetration though.)
A good Eraser/Rubber
You might think its silly to get technical over your eraser, but the best eraser on the market is the Steadtler Mars Plastic eraser. You know, the white one with the blue card wrapped around it. You’ll have to trust me again on this, it really is the best.
Pencil Sharpener
Any sharpener that doesn’t come out of a Christmas cracker is good. Eventually they rust or go blunt, you’ll know when you need a new one, because you’ll either have lost it or it doesn’t work.
Other Useful Stuff!
Manikins.
Or in this case a Womanikin! There is a slightly different shaped upper torso for male and female manikins. When I went to the art supply store, they had run out of the male ones, so I got a girly one instead.
These will help you practice drawing proportions, positions and perspectives of subjects, and you can use them as a visual aid to your imagination when your just drawing made up characters!
A Scanner
Shop around for a good inexpensive colour scanner.
Image hosting websites
http://imageshack.us/ - My favourite one.
(Use [img]image location[/img] to display images on this website)
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you.Last edited 15 Sep 2007 06:11 pm by Gunslang | | | 09 Sep 2007 03:30 pm |
why so grunty? Rep: 32  Joined: 07 Aug 2007 Posts: 6,123 OFFLINE | i have stubby hands...
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 | | | 09 Sep 2007 03:32 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | never stopped me...
wait, how stubby?
like... stubs?
stubs for hands?
try graphite sticks! or chalk!
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you.Last edited 09 Sep 2007 08:15 pm by Gunslang | | | 15 Sep 2007 06:57 pm |
Addict (beyond 1337) Rep: 9  Joined: 28 Mar 2006 Posts: 9,238 OFFLINE | What kind of pencil do you think would be best for drawing Anime/Manga styles? I’m not much of a sketcher or artist, I just like to draw cartoons, anime, etc.
| | | 16 Sep 2007 07:46 am |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | personaly, I almost always use a 2B for sketching.
I would say, a 0.5mm HB mechanical pencil (or clutch pencil, whatever you wanna call it), or any HB or B2 pencil, depending on personal preference. you might want a berol fine point fibre tip pen to ink it aswell.
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you. | | | 17 Sep 2007 10:27 am |
Addict (beyond 1337) Rep: 9  Joined: 28 Mar 2006 Posts: 9,238 OFFLINE | So mechanical pencils are better for drawing? I would think so because you don’t have to worry about it smearing like a normal pencil does when it gets dull.
Nice thin lines ftw.
| | | 17 Sep 2007 10:56 am |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | to be honest, if you don’t press hard, a sharp point will last for a whole sketch, maybe two or three. but yah, clutch pencils are good
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you. | | | 18 Sep 2007 05:41 pm |
Entree Rep: 0 Joined: 18 Sep 2007 Posts: 6 OFFLINE | HEY GUESS WHAT
MEGA MAN COULD OWN THIS BITCH
Moderated 18 Sep 2007 05:43 pm by Cid | | | 18 Sep 2007 05:43 pm |
Regular Rep: 0  Joined: 25 Jul 2007 Posts: 913 OFFLINE | wtf
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 | | | 25 Sep 2007 10:02 pm |
Scritches? Rep: 12  Joined: 02 Feb 2007 Posts: 10,642 OFFLINE | Gunslang wrote:
personaly, I almost always use a 2B for sketching.
I would say, a 0.5mm HB mechanical pencil (or clutch pencil, whatever you wanna call it), or any HB or B2 pencil, depending on personal preference. you might want a berol fine point fibre tip pen to ink it aswell.
I usually sketch with a 4H.
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Remember: Kindness is not a characteristic. It is a skill. A skill which improves with practice.  | | | 28 Sep 2007 08:59 pm |
bahaha-_-its me Guest | great tips. but the hardest thing for me to accomplish is setting time to draw.
| | | 28 Sep 2007 10:17 pm |
Live like an angel, die like a devil Rep: 18  Joined: 01 Apr 2007 Posts: 12,747 OFFLINE | How dare you pop your collar.................
Is not metal..........
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 | | | 29 Sep 2007 11:21 pm |
M v C Graphics Designer Rep: 10  Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Posts: 8,023 OFFLINE | i create digital art instead, im so pro at it ^^
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 | | | 13 Oct 2007 02:18 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | fuckyfuckerfuckingmcfuckfuck69 wrote:
How dare you pop your collar.................
Is not metal..........
actually its not popped, the shirt is just like that...
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you. | | | 20 Dec 2007 06:31 am |
Regular Rep: 9  Joined: 14 Dec 2007 Posts: 708 OFFLINE | Deathspartan117 wrote:
What kind of pencil do you think would be best for drawing Anime/Manga styles? I’m not much of a sketcher or artist, I just like to draw cartoons, anime, etc.
A mechanical pencil is by far the best for details. One of my friends uses a Mechanical pencil for Dragon Art - Scales fur and what have you - but I normally use a 2H all the time, or HB, this type gives you a light outline of your drawing which you can then go over it with a softer pencil like a 2B-4B or even an Ink Pen.
And Rubbers (Erasers sorry) are essential, especially in creative drawing. It’s best to buy one THAT LASTS, like one of those Round and Circular ones, they last FOREVER....well kinda.
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The NeonMan5 Japanese Topic!Last edited 20 Dec 2007 06:32 am by NeonMan5 | | | 22 Dec 2007 02:41 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | The Steadtler Mars Plastic is by far the most effective eraser out there in my oppinion, and I’m sure many will agree. putty rubbers and natural rubber erasers also have their place though. You generally don’t need one for rough sketching though.
and I would have to agree that mechanical pencils are, infact, made up of pure win.
will add more to this topic at some point
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you. | | | 13 Jan 2008 02:40 pm |
UBER 1337 Poster Rep: 5  Joined: 10 Feb 2007 Posts: 2,308 OFFLINE | recommended reading:
Dynamic Figure Drawing by Burne Hogarth.
--- I’m a Victorian metalhead, pleased to meat you. | | | 29 Feb 2008 07:52 am |
Regular Rep: 9  Joined: 14 Dec 2007 Posts: 708 OFFLINE | Indeed, Steadtler rubbers are a major win. They last quite long and they are good quality at a good price.
The only problem is with rubbers in general is that they become covered in lead too quickly, but then again I tend to use mine alot.
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The NeonMan5 Japanese Topic!Last edited 11 Apr 2008 07:09 am by NeonMan5 | |
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